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Simple analysis of stick defence
   
Observations made during analysis of four foot stick (jo or yonshakubo) work, by  Ian and Suzanne Stewart, Tony Frearn, Mike Flanagan, and Roger Sheldon during a Shinseido study day at Shinsei dojo Riverhead on 12 October 2003 with additional notes by Ian Swyer and Roger Sheldon.
   
   
Preliminaries
   
Before embarking upon comments regarding the use of defensive weapons I would be irresponsible if I did not make some simple preliminary observations.
   
When faced with an assault (unarmed or armed) the first rule is to understand 'why'.  That is, why would someone want to attack you.  What are you doing to invite such an attack?  Are you frequenting a place you wisely shouldn't?  Did you say something inflammatory or make a thoughtless or insensitive remark?  Do you look as if you are worth robbing?  Are you making things look easy?  I am not suggesting that all attacks can be avoided, rather that we should know why, and where possible, avoid or remove the cause before the event.
   
When faced with an assault (unarmed or armed) the second rule is to understand the value of appropriate body language.  This is a subject deserving of many pages, however a generalisation is in simply recognising the fact that assailants tend to attack a person only when they 'know' they will be successful and that they will not be badly hurt themselves.  If you can look 'invincible' as in calm, confident, maybe even quietly ruthless (or empathic, subject to situation) and very capable, it is likely the assault won't take place. 
   
When faced with an assault (unarmed or armed) the third rule is to remove oneself.  This is not always regarded as a good courageous martial strategy, however, be assured that subject to assessment, walking out of the situation, running, diving out of the window (providing it is not ten storeys up), getting to the other side of a stout door - indeed, anything that separates you from the serious attacker is a sound and very sensible strategy. 
   
To "fight" a committed attacker with a lump of two-by-two, a bokken (wooden practice sword), or God forbid, a live blade of any sort, successfully with a jo (four foot stick) or walking stick and not be injured however slightly, would take a large amount of skill, focused anger, stupidity and/or good old luck.  Or a combination of these factors.  Let's not kid ourselves - the use of "weapons" in the real world as distinct from the safe controlled environment of the dojo (training hall) requires a cool head, a sharp eye, experience, skill and a very brave heart.
   
   
Weapons in Shinseido
   
The use of weapons within Shindo falls into two categories: the classical methods of Okinawa and those evolved within the contemporary Shinseido system.  The contemporary techniques are rooted in the classical practices but have been examined with a view to making them simple, functional and effective with no regard to the maintenance of 'classical' form.  These contemporary techniques are also strongly rooted in 'natural' response modes.  The weapons of Shinseido practice (as distinct from traditional Okinawan practice) tend to be sticks (bo) ranging in length from six inches (kobutan or yawara) to approximately four feet (yonshakubo or jo) and also opportunist 'weapons' - being everyday things that can be readily held in the hand/s and that may be picked up spontaneously in an emergency situation.  Such 'weapons' have, (in reality), been walking sticks, umbrellas, pens, keys, credit cards, cushions, brooms, ironing boards, chairs, attaché cases, etc.
   
As regards terminology, the Japanese measurement of 1 shaku is the equivalent of 11.93 inches, thus the difference between a stick of four shaku and one of four feet (for example) is a mere .28 inches, and insignificant in terms of the purpose for which the stick is being used - four foot stick or yonshakubo - no matter, 'tis the same difference.
   
   
Choosing a stick
   
When choosing a bo (stick) for training purposes at a martial arts store, make sure you examine the grain along its entire length.  The grain should be close and consistent, running along the entire length of the stick.  Unless you are paying a respectable amount, don't expect to find a perfect stick and count yourself lucky if you do.  Avoid sticks with knots or where the grain clearly runs at a sharp angle through the width of the stick.  Look for plain brown patches in the wood (filler) - yes, believe it or not I have purchased a bo in the past that had a great gouge out of it and it had been filled and sanded down.  Look too, for a straight bo, not one that is even remotely bowed.  A reputable supplier of bokken (wooden practice swords) and jo (four foot sticks) in the UK can be found in Gloucester at http://www.users.dircon.co.uk/~bka/dojo/ninecirc.htm
   

If you intend using your bo as a practise weapon in pairs work against another bo it is important that you don't have a bo that will snap if struck a powerful blow.  I have known practitioners who have attempted to arrest the descending blow of their partner's staff only to have their own shatter, the jagged ends snapping back and lacerating the face - that in addition to the blow on the head received from the attacker.  The solution to this is to have a well prepared bo and to understand the principle of absorption of attack.
   

Having chosen a well grained straight bo, you can if you wish, strip and sand all the finishing varnish off down to the bare wood, then immerse the staff in a vegetable oil / turpentine solution for a period of time.  Linseed oil obtained from the flax plant is often used.  Turpentine is a viscous resin obtained from conifers and is mutually soluble with vegetable oils.  Turpentine never completely evaporates. A small percentage always remains as an elastic resinous substance within the fibres of the wood.

   
Don't store your bo by standing it in a corner because it will soon sag and assume a permanent bow - rather, lie it on the floor or other flat surface. 
   
   
Additional remarks
   
No apologies for repeating the message: It is important to recognise that sticks in general, (i.e. sticks picked up spontaneously as a defensive weapon,) can be very weak and may snap or split when struck powerfully, especially at right angles to the length of the stick.  Therefore oblique positioning of the bo and absorption strategies become important.
   
The term 'weapon' is more often than not taken to mean 'an instrument of offence', however, this is not true.  Within Shindo the precise definition is 'any instrument or object that may be utilised as a tool of offence, defence, or counter offence', the implications being absolutely clear. 
   
The likelihood of being able to pick up a useful device spontaneously may be remote. 
   
It may be that an object would be a hindrance to the defender rather than a help unless it had certain qualities that make it useful, such as:
   
  a. Ease of holding and manipulation
  b. Usefulness as a protective device (shield)
  c. Usefulness in neutralising the assault as in incapacitating the attacker
   
The fingers and finger knuckles are always at grave risk of being damaged by a blow either directly or as the countered weapon slides along the defensive stick.
   
   
Simple analysis of stick defence
   
A hand held weapon as distinct from a projectile or a weapon that utilises projectiles (firearms, catapult, bow and arrow etc.) may be regarded as a natural extension of the hand and arm.  All the principles of unarmed defence apply to defence employing weapons. 
   
Identify an appropriate defensive position from which to engage the attacker.  There are three primary/basic defensive postures.  These are not described in order of importance (for that is situational), rather in order of degree of response.
   
  a. The first is to stand facing the attacker with feet approximately shoulder width apart holding the stick in one's active hand with the arm hanging down. the whole being in a completely relaxed and natural manner so that the stick positions itself somewhat diagonally downwards and across the nearest leg. 

This is a passive posture with an expectancy to succeed in a talk down when the assailant is at a generous distance outside the tactile zone (circle of reach with the stick).
     
  b. The second posture is to stand facing the attacker with feet approximately shoulder width apart holding the stick horizontally across the front of the body in both hands, the whole being in a relaxed and natural manner. 

This is a moderately passive/active posture with an expectancy to succeed in a talk down (or to have to defend oneself if needs be) when the assailant is at a comfortable distance outside the tactile zone.
     
  c. The third is to hold the stick with both hands against the side of the body facing approximately forwards on a longitudinal line with the leading tip of the stick pointing between the attacker's eyes.  Whether this is on the right or left side of the body matters not at all.  The stick may be positioned on the trailing or leading foot side of the body subject to naturalness, needs and intent.

If the stick is four feet or less in length it may also be held in both hands so that the trailing end is positioned on one's centreline at the abdomen with the leading end pointing between the assailant's eyes in similar manner to the way one would hold a katana (sword).  The adoption of this position requires that one foot is forwards and one back on a longitudinal line facing the assailant.  In this position the leading hand is the same side as the leading foot.

This is an active posture with an expectancy to have to defend oneself when the assailant is close to the tactile zone. 

     
   
The stick should not be held rigidly with both hands.  Any rigidity implies a slower and more ungainly response to what is happening.  While the grip of one hand should be very firm and strong, control of the stick should be fluid, relaxed and absorptive.  The importance of fluidity in movement cannot be overstated.
   
One hand should always be in total control of the defensive stick, however, the other (normally the lower hand) may for the most part, relinquish its gripping control on the stick in order for the forearm to act in the capacity of a support underneath the stick, thus protecting the hand and fingers and leaving the hand free to counter grapple.
   
Remember the Shinseido precept to move.  From the very first lesson, the Shinseido student is taught how lateral evasion is a pre-requisite in response to the majority of linear attacks - this especially so if the assailant is armed.  The common martial art practice of standing your ground resolutely and putting your arm up in defence can lead to disaster.  I always remember with fondness and not a little amusement the tale of a contemporary of mine many years ago, who went to a somewhat lively party and somehow ended up by being attacked by an assailant wanting to smash a stout wooden chair over my acquaintance's head.  In good modern Japanese karate manner he adopted a strong low forward stance and performed a perfect rising defence...  Later, recovering in hospital he reflected upon the merits of such a strategy and also upon the merits of training in a system that engendered such a response.
   
The preceding lesson applies equally when using a defensive weapon.  A bo meeting a strong attacker without movement often ends in unhappiness for the defender.  Imagine being attacked by that descending chair (stick or whatever) and having access to a stick yourself, you snatch it up and thrust the stick upwards horizontally to meet the force of the descending attack.  Force meets force, the power of the attack against the rising stick is doubled and the stick snaps.  In similar manner, in the old days when I practiced breaking techniques (tamashiwara), if the break was to be hand held I always taught the assistant to push into my attack rather than stand perfectly still.  Standing still resulted in the recipient partly absorbing the thrust, but a short almost imperceptible pushing into the attack at the moment of contact always ensured a good clean break.
   
To conclude on the two preceding points, some sort of  movement is going to be vital, whether that be shifting backwards, forwards, laterally backwards or forwards, sideways one way or the other, or any successive combination of shifting movements subject to the needs of the moment and one's intent.  The importance of avoidance before countering cannot be overstated.
   
Subject to assessment, the skill level of the practitioner, and the nature of the weapon (bladed or blunt weapons), the manner of defence is generally best conducted in the offensive - that is to defend against an initial assault and to immediately go into the counter offensive by closing/shutting down.  This does not necessarily imply waiting for the first attack to be initiated. 
   
Learn to use your defensive stick to counter strike the attackers weapon smartly as a means to disarm him, the fingers to weaken his resolve and the head or neck to terminate the assault.
   
   
Appendix
   
Primary counter targets fall into two groups - those that have a distracting/weakening effect and those that have a disabling/neutralising effect.  Those in the former category might be: hands, wrists, elbows, knees, and feet,  Those in the latter category might be the head (top and sides); the face, neck, throat, testicles, and solar plexus.
   
Developmental exercises or practise in which the following aspects are taken into consideration:   
   
  a. Basic interception of striking attacks as in sweeping strikes to the head, torso and legs, descending strikes to the head; thrusting attacks to the face, torso and groin.
  b. Interception and simultaneous evasion
  c. Interception and immediate counter strike
  d. Interception and immediate shut down
  e. Interception and immediate hand or foot counters
  f. Interception and immediate counter control of attacking weapon